The district of Birbhum houses temples of various types like rekha deul, bangla, chala and ratna but there are a few temples which are octagonal in shape. One such temple is Chandranath Shiva Temple at Hetampur. It is a brick-built east-facing “octagonal-pinnacled” temple of navaratna type built by Raja Krishnachandra of Hetampur in 1847. It also is a state protected monument under Directorate of Archaeology and Museums.
To me the temple is unique not because of its octagonal shape but of its terracotta decorations coupled with stucco works in the three sides. In this context I would like to mention there are a few temples of octagonal shape like Hathtola Mahaprabhu Temple, Ilambazar, Birbhum and an octagonal ridged rekha duel at Supur. This temple has nine ratnas or pinnacles crowned with a figure may be of an angel which is rare. So we may say that the temple is octagonal in shape but navaratna in style.
Like other temples it is on a raised platform. As stated out of the eight sides, the front and the immediate left and right sides are decorated with terracotta works. The terracotta panels contain mostly human figures including Europeans. Most of the panels are intact revealing social pictures.
A close look at the central panel i.e., the panel above the main entrance will reveal rows of human figures in different postures at the base with a Coat of Arms may be of British East India Company in the lower middle section. Above it there is possibly an image of Goddess Durga. Just above it there is a portrait of an European woman. Stucco works on the sides decorate the walls of this temple.
Here also one will come across lesser number of figures compared to the frontal panel. A close look will revel that at places the plasters have peeled off. There is a figure pouring water from a mug.
Here there are a number of decorations – Radha Krishna on the left and a seated lady thinking deeply putting her hand on her forehead. There is an also an ‘erotic’ figure.
The temple has two false doors on the left and the right and just above it there are decorations. To me, the doors are prepared in such a way that if one looks at them from a distance one will surely feel them to be real. There lies the exquisite craftsmanship of the artisans of the time. There are also “Doric columns”. Semi circular arches are also prevalent. Rows of figures appear on the two sides of the false doors with designs in between.
Going there:
The nearest railway station is Dubrajpur located at a distance of just 3 miles from Chandranath Shiva Temple. One can board Hool Express from Howrah station and reach Dubrajpur at quarter past ten in the morning. I personally hired a four wheeler from Bolpur Shantiniketan and covered Hetampur, Dubrajpur and Rajnagar and boarded Hool Express from Siuri at 1:40 pm.
References:
- Nadia Jelar Purakirti – Mohit Roy
- Brick Temples of Bengal – David McCutchion
Date of posting: 15th February, 2026.
Blog of Kinjal Bose 