Rathayatra or chariot festival is widely celebrated in different parts of West Bengal including Calcutta (now Kolkata). There are a number of bonedi houses and thakurbaris in Kolkata where it is still celebrated with much pomp and splendour. One such thakurbari is at 6/1, Gobinda Sen Lane, Bowbazar, Kolkata – 700012 founded by Chunimani Dasi on 21st Magh, 1307 Bangabda (February 1900) which will be celebrating 125th Rathayatra festival this year.
In many households where Durga Puja is celebrated Rathayatra is special as because on that day the kathamo puja of Devi Durga is held. In some houses the same ritual is made on the day of Ultarath and, in the rest, on Janmastami. That apart khuti puja is also performed in barowari Durga Pujas.
I witnessed the rathayatra of Chunimani Dasi in June 2023. Just before entering the house I saw two old structures of gas lamps on both sides of the entrance. It seemed previously the lamps lighted the entrance. What a nostalgic feeling! Presently, this thakurbari is a Grade – I heritage under Kolkata Municipal Corporation.
The front door is decorated with garlands and on the right there is a stone plaque. Stucco works are visible.
As you enter there is a square-shaped courtyard. I saw the decorated rath. Many people have come to witness the festival. But the striking thing is the Jagannath. There is no Balaram and Subhadra here. Jagannath rides on this rath alone. The presiding deities of this thakurbari are Jagannath and Radha-Govinda. Hence apart from rathayatra, jhulanyatra, janmastami, rashyatra, cachar and dolyatra (pancham dol) are celebrated here.
It was said that the neem wood used in making of Jagannath came from Puri. Different types of bhog are offered to Jagannath like khichuri, labra, polao, payesh, five types of bhaja. Lord Jagannath rides on the rath in the afternoon around 1:00 pm and stays there for the entire day. I was told by Shri Tapan Kr. Dey, family member, that previously this chariot used to move outside the thakurbari. The last time it went outside was approximately four decades back. Presently the rath moves inside the courtard. He further said when the rath used to go outside, it went to each and every house of the members belonging to this family and had bhog there as they used to invite Jagannath to their respective households. But as because the rath does not go out, the members used to come here.
I was told that there is no mashir bari here. Another interesting thing I came to know is there are two besh of Jagannath during these eight days from Rathayatra to Ultarath namely baman besh and raj besh on the respective tithis. The rath was previously four storied but now only three. There are five churas or turrets, two white-coloured horses and dwarpal.
Special thanks to Shri Tapan Kr. Dey
Date of posting: 26th June, 2025.
Post updated: 5th July, 2025.
Blog of Kinjal Bose 