Baranagar in Lalbag subdivision of Murshidabad district of West Bengal houses a number of temples – some with exquisite terracotta works of which Gangeshwar Temple of jor bangla type deserves special mention.
Rani Bhavani had built a number of temples at Baranagar – Gangeshwar Temple (c 1753), Bhavanisvar Temple (c 1755), Char Bangla Temples (c 1755) and Raj Rajeshwari Temple (1757). Among them Bhavanisvar Temple and Char Bangla Temples are protected monuments under Archaeological Survey of India (ASI), Kolkata circle and Gangeshwar Temple is a state protected monument under Directorate of Archaeology and Museums, West Bengal. That apart there are also other temples. Each temple is distinct in its own way and is well maintained.
The brick built west-facing Gangeshwar Temple is of jor bangla type which is formed by placing two ek bangla temples side-by-side. Examples of this type of temple are Jor Bangla Temple at Bishnupur, Bankura; Chaitanyadev Temple at the temple complex in Guptipara, Hooghly; Jor Bangla Temple at Birnagar, Nadia, Jor Bangla Temple at Itanda, Birbhum to name a few. Built around 1753, this temple has rich terracotta decorations in its front. The arches, walls and pillars are all richly ornamented with exquisite terracotta work ranging from scenes of Ramayana, Krishna Lila, gods and goddesses and scenes from daily life. Apart from the western side there are also terracotta works on the southern side also.
Like other temples it has a triple arched entrance but unlike other mandir it is almost at flat level. Most of the terracotta panels are intact depicting Bengal’s unique style of terracotta prevalent at that time. This temple has two entrances – one from the western side containing three doors and the other from the southern side. But the entrance from the southern side is used.
Special reference can be made to two angular sculptures with terracotta decorations in the two corners of the facade of the temple. A close look will reveal that parts of the decoration just above the sculpture has got damaged.
The second ek bangla structure containing the door (seen in the picture) leads to the temple sanctum where there are three Shiva lingas made of black stone. There are trees surrounding the temple making it look unique.
Going there: Baranagar can be reached both by rail and road. But for the most comfortable journey board Ganadevta Express from Howrah station at 6:05 am and reach Azimganj junction at around noon. From there hire an auto and reach the temple. The other temples around Baranagar can also be seen. The distance between Howrah and Azimganj is about 278 kilometres. One can return on the same day by Ganadevta Express leaving Azimganj Jn. at 3:50 pm and reaches Howrah by 9:45pm. It can be a day trip provided if it well planned but it will be rather hectic. I personally followed the above schedule.
Reference: Paschim Banglar Tirtha – Pralay Sen
Special thanks to Shri Gopal Mondal
Date of posting: 28th July, 2024.
Blog of Kinjal Bose 