Birnagar (formerly Ula) located about 85 kilometres from Sealdah is a municipal town in Ranaghat subdivision of Nadia district of West Bengal. The town has a number of temples of which the Jor Bangla Temple dedicated to Radha Krishna deserves special mention.

The temple houses the deities of Radha Krishna. Like other temples, daily worship is performed here but at the time of my visit on a Sunday morning early this month, I found the temple closed for which I could not take the photograph of the idols. The idol of Krishna is made of kasthipathar (touchstone) while that of Radhika is made from astodhatu (an alloy of eight metals). But peeping through the gate I could see the idol and offer my pranam.

As per pratisthalipi or the foundation plaque, the temple was built by Rameswar Mitra in 1616 Sakabda (ie, 1694 as per Gregorian calendar). Previously there was a custom of writing the year either in Sakabda or in Bangabda (ie, as per Bengali calendar). I have noticed this in many temples of Bengal. Here the words and dates are legible. Rameswar Mitra was a zamindar. He received the title of Mustafi from Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb in 1704. He also worked as a collector and an auditor during the time of Murshid Kuli Khan.

The front gate has received a fresh coat of paint. While entering through it you have to walk a few steps and the temple will be on your right. The mandir is on a raised platform and there is a flight of stairs at the left end. This temple has terracotta decorations on the frontal side but due to colouring and at the time of renovation the same has faded. But whatever still remains is enough and has one of the finest terracotta decorations in the district. In this connection it is also needless to say that this temple is one of the few jor Bangla temples of the district. Mention may be made of another jor Bangla brick-built temple at Tehatta built in 1678 A.D. The jor Bangla temple is formed by joining two do-chala or ek Bangla temples together side by side.

The brick-built Jor Bangla Temple at Mustafi para in Birnagar is west-facing just like the temple at Tehatta. Probably there might have been some terracotta decorations on the sides but none is visible now except some floral decorations at the base. Here the first do-chala acts as the balcony while the second serves as the garba griha or the inner sanctum.



As mentioned earlier the front portion of the temple has terracotta ornamentations. But compared to that the base and pillars have prominent terracotta figures. But the thing which drew my attention is a series of swans on terracotta and they are pretty prominent.


The terracotta decorations include Krishnalila, gods and goddesses, boat scene, soldiers apart from scenes of social life. That apart there are floral decorations.

A close look at the decoration will reveal Devi Durga as Mahisasuramardini with Ganesh and Kartick on both sides. Just below it is a terracotta panel depicting swans and at the lower base there is a boat scene with seven people holding the oar of the boat.
Going there:
The best way to reach there is to board Sealdah-Krishnanagar local and get down at Birnagar station. From the station you will have to take a toto and reach the temple at Mustafi para.
References:
- Brick Temples of Bengal – David McCutchion
- Nadia Jelar Purakirti – Mohit Roy
Date of posting: 26th March, 2024.
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